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Grand Canyon River Trip

By Bo Beck and Mary Cisneros

The Grand Canyon is as "grand" as its name implies. One of the seven natural wonders of the world, Grand Canyon for most tourists may be nothing more than a quick scenic drive through the park, a short hike to one of many viewpoints, a stop at the visitor center, or dinner in the lodge, then hitting a shop or two for souvenirs.

To really experience Grand Canyon, you may have to trade your long silky hair for a muddy mess of dreadlocks; sleep on the ground for weeks or bathe in forty-five degree water cold enough for "brain freeze."

Sound like fun? If you said no, you may miss the very best way to see the Grand Canyon! Floating the enormous gorge, with the exhilaration of roaring world-class rapids, is the trip of a lifetime! Between the violent chaos of a wild ride through the rapids and the calm of still water, there is time to soak in the intense beauty and the remarkable geology of the canyon with its magnificent towering walls.

Our guides on this unforgettable adventure were trip-leader Monte and an incredible group of "river rats." We set out in early spring when the weather is usually unpredictable. Fortunately the days were warm, preventing hypothermia as massive waves broke over the top of us, dousing us in frigid water. Each day we would pull into a sandy beach before nightfall and set up camp as daylight was dwindling. As soon as the boats were docked, an organized process created an elaborate kitchen, dishwashing table, and fire pan along with a concealed latrine with an incredible view of the river. Everything had its place. Fishing lines were cast in the hope of fresh fish for dinner and each of us had the opportunity to be chef during the trip.

Storytelling - After the sun had set, chilly air drew us into a tight circle around the fire where gifted storytellers and seasoned river runners O.C. and Jack shared a lifetime of adventures on the river. These delightful Grand Canyon veterans with white beards were soft-spoken and jovial characters. Images from their yarns seemed to dance in the firelight as they spun their tales!

Around the campfire camaraderie grew as Jimmy and the two Tommy's sang and kept the laughter flowing. As eyelids grew heavy we made our way to our accommodations where - in the moments before the rhythm of the river lulled us to sleep - we laid quietly staring up into the dark sky, sprinkled liberally with brilliant stars. In the morning of each new day, we awoke to Tommy's laughter and the warmth of a roaring fire.

Into the boats - After breakfast we packed our gear onto seven watercrafts. We often camped where we could see other groups run the rapids. We had our own close calls, but it was harrowing to watch a man thrown from the back of another boat, hit the oarsman on the top of the head, then bob and struggle in the frigid and turbulent waves of emerald green water before being fished out.

Grand Canyon North Rim Road Map Directions to North Rim Grand Canyon: From Zion National Park, take on U-9 through the park to Mt. Carmel Jct. Turn south on US-89 to Kanab. There is only one stop light in Kanab; this is where US-89 changes to ALT 89. Fredonia, Arizona is 6 miles. In Fredonia take 89A to Jacob lake (36 miles), then take AZ 67 to the Grand Canyon North Rim park entrance. Winter Road Conditions and Highway 67 Road Closures			One of the boats pointed at the mountains of the Grand Canyon
	Lodging and services are available on the gorgeous east side of Zion National Park, where guests are close to Zion National Park (12 miles), Bryce Canyon National Park (60 miles), Cedar Breaks National Monument (45 miles), Coral Pink Sand Dunes (12 miles), and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (85 miles). It's where city traffic is absent and the skies are bright and clean.

Head first - Until we got to the stretch of river known as Deubendorff, the rapids had not really intimidated me. In fact, the rowers were hitting the rapids so smooth it was like a gentle roller coaster ride. I would get wet of course, but on the big raft, I felt quite safe in the hands of our experienced rowers. Perhaps I was lax and not holding on tight enough. Maybe it would not have mattered how tight I held on, because in the end a giant wave got the best of me. I never knew what hit me until my body was draped over the boat and my face was almost in the water. Luckily before I plunged into the depths of the Colorado River, my boat mate Bill, pulled me back onto the floor of the raft. Then another massive wave heaved water on top of me, leaving me gasping for air. I struggled to get back on my seat, eyes wide with fear when I saw massive boulders jutting out of the water everywhere as we dropped into a capacious swirl of whitewater! We hit every "hole" in Deubendorff!

Rapids - Having watched Tanya, try swimming the notorious Deubendorff rapid, I should have had more sense than to try my hand at paddling an inflatable kayak through rough water. I thought the maneuverability of my borrowed "duckie" would be my trump card to keep me out of harms way. After all, that was the case through the Havasu rapid and a few small riffles. The noise was deafening as I watched the 18' raft ahead drop off into plumes of spray and boiling waters, indicating that the next stretch of water might mean serious business for my tiny inflatable. The other boaters had just made it past the "standing wave" when I saw them pointing and hollering "go right!" I realized I wasn't going to make it just before a lateral wave pounded me from the side. This pummeling left me clinging to my paddle and gasping for air as I rode the rest of the savage and unforgiving water underneath my overturned kayak. I was only in the freezing water a short time before being able to clamber back into the safety of my kayak, but the cold was shocking! Once on shore even the intense rays of the sun and dry clothes could not dim the chill permeating my body.

Hiking - As exciting as it was to run the river, there was also fantastic hiking to be done through many side canyons and towering temples, such as Dox Castle down to Shinumo Creek or up Galloway Canyon and down Stone Creek. Hiking to the desert waterfalls of Thunder River, Deer Creek, Elves Chasm, Havasu and many others are an outdoorsman's dream.

Lava Falls - As we neared 180 miles on the river, a menacing rumble grew louder, demanding everyone's attention. The time had come to face Lava Falls, the most violent and savage stretch of water on the river. The infamous rapid is nestled below Toroweap Overlook on the North Rim where boulders form enormous waves and "holes" capable of gobbling up even the largest watercraft on the river. O.C's wooden dory plummeted into the swirling water and broke unscathed through the tempestuous torrent. One by one, each oarsman pulled into the current, adrenaline rushing through their veins, the beauty of Toroweap ignored as minds focused on the task immediately ahead. They crashed through the splashing bedlam of violence engulfing the boats. That night around the campfire, there would be chilling stories of past encounters with one of the canyon's biggest rapids.

It's hard to keep track of days on the river, but just two short days after Lava Falls it was time to bid farewell to new friends and wonderful hosts Jack and Monte before they continue on to Lake Mead. We watched as the fleet slowly drifted south then pushed our way up the rim of the canyon to our awaiting vehicle. It was a bittersweet day, but the memories will live on forever.

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